Neil Beckett | Pale gold. An early picking date has avoided the excess bonhomie this cru can easily exhibit and of which Grégory is rightly wary, while fermentation in 400-liter demi-muids has preserved the silken texture. Gently earthy on the nose, pure if reserved. Despite the density, there is transparency here—clearest, thickest crystal— gently expansive, even gently explosive. | 93