Neil Beckett | As always, the final blend gives a particularly complete picture of the great hill in the vintage, blended from three blocks (upper, middle, and lower), and 15 parcels in total. Pale lemon-gold. Beguiling, enigmatic, fresh, subtle, and transparent (only 12 months in barrel, only 30% new oak, before 6 months in stainless-steel tanks, still on fine lees, to preserve a lightly reductive tension); light citrus notes, not lemon exactly, nor lime, nor grapefruit, as much tangerine. Medium-bodied, a beautifully controlled energy, a comfortable canter rather than a forced gallop, finely layered, flowing and silken, pure and seamless, with perfectly pitched acidity, neither high nor low. An excellent result. | 94