Neil Beckett | Frédéric Weber, the modest but talented maître de chai, was anxious about the acidity levels in this warm vintage. But precise picking times, short whole-bunch pressing, and cool fermentations (17o –18o C [63o –64o F] only in stainless-steel tanks have all helped to preserve the freshness. This Genevrières is a brilliant illustration, also helped by the fresher, higher of the two parcels (both in Dessus) that are blended shortly before bottling. Pale lemon. A very inviting nose, lightly toasty but not at all heavy. Elegant entry, a lovely silky texture, very moreish, but enough acidity for gentle scintillation, and there is great gentle tenacity as well. At this early stage, this seems even more dynamic and vital than the almost equally good Perrières. | 92