Neil Beckett | While the Bâtard is also very worthy, if I had to choose, I might prefer the Bienvenues this year. Only two pièces (neither new), bought as must, but from vines biodynamically cultivated for 10 years. Pale lemon. A lovely scent: elegant, floral, lightly honeyed. Effortless on the palate, a discreet opulence, relaxed tension, not explosive or scintillating, but completely enchanting, supremely stylish, and still with great gentle persistence. | 94