Neil Beckett |A one-pièce wonder, bought as young wine from a distinguished house, then for the malolactic fermentation onward, moved to Vincent Girardin and raised there—very successfully, on this showing. Lemon-gold. An exquisite nose, complete, complex, subtle, floral, honeyed, lightly hazelnutty. Beguiling texture, at once finely spun and richly woven, completely harmonious and seamless, which as much as anything else may be the hallmark of Montrachet, the acidity neither high nor low, effortless and graceful but on a grand scale, with elegant, high, slow fireworks on the finish. | 96