Neil Beckett | Of the three very good Volnay premiers crus this year (the other two being Champans and Pitures) this is perhaps the most seductive. Medium ruby. A very winning nose, calm, composed, ripe red and black fruit, lightly toasty from the 30% new oak, with no negative telltale signs from the 30% whole-bunch fermentation, less peppery than softly spicy. A beautifully silky texture, finely layered and succulent throughout— partly, Eric suggests, because half of the barrels are Seguin Moreau's Aquaflex, which contribute less harsh tannins from the wood to the wine. Careful extraction doubtless important, too. | 92