Andrew Jefford | Clear light mid-gold in color. Straw, vanilla, and some honeyed richness, as well as musky spice. It’s not the most provoking or characterful scent in this tasting, but there is lots of gentle, northerly “fruit mist” appeal here. Musky apple, pear, and the lemoniness you find in wheat beer on the palate; gentle, sustained, satisfying. | 87

Anne Krebiechl | Whitecurrant, starfruit, an edge of rhubarb and bright lemon on the nose promise full fruit. The palate delivers with concentration, juicy, appetizing tartness, and a wonderfully tropical thrill of passion fruit. The inherent zestiness at the core lends not only freshness but also grip. Lemon zest echoes long.| 92

Stephan Reinhardt | As we all know, just oak isn’t a solution for any good wine. The nose is pretty oaky here, but the more air it gets, the finer and deeper the bouquet becomes: Concentrated and spicy but also ripe and intense fruit aromas take over in a discreet yet not as shining way as the forerunners. The palate is powerful, elegant, and juicy; dense but fine and persistently salty, with good grip and power. In the middle of nowhere right now but promising, piquant, and salty on the finish. Drink between 2020 and 2027. | 91