Andrew Jefford | Saturated deep black-red. Refined, perfumed, and elegant, its blackcurrant fruits packed in incense spice, root spice, and dried citrus peels: a comptoir in a glass! Lovely stuff. That’s what you get on the flavors, too: a very intense, vigorous, fruity core packed away in spices and citrus peels. Exciting, exuberant wine from what is obviously a good-to-great vintage hereabouts. There are fine tannins; it is concentrated and long. And classical in the most accessible kind of way. The only key to the fact that it is 2014 is that acidity remains a relatively prominent part of its constitution—but it’s perfectly balanced here. Juniper finish. | 93

Michael Schuster | Dense, fine, ripe fruit and mineral nose; full, fresh, finely tannic; deep, crisp, savory wine, long and complex, if still fairly austere in structure; a fine, long-term claret, aromatically complex, but youthfully austere. Will need a decade, but greatly reward plenty of time in bottle. 2030–40+. | 92