Neil Beckett: Ever more committed work in the vineyards (all certified biodynamic) and greater sensitivity in the winery are increasingly showing through in the wines. From 40-year-old vines in very rocky soil, this wine has an intense, slightly wild nose. Dense and medium-bodied on the palate, it is still very gentle in terms of extraction and grip, with lovely, silky tannins and very good length. 15 As a fascinating comparison, a parcel in the same vineyard was planted in 2002 en foule (sprawling, untrained, close to the ground) and vinified separately, but in the same way, since 2006. Offered only in magnums, it is appreciably different: a fresh, red licorice nose; greater density and richness of fruit on the palate, but matched by greater acidity, energy, power, and vigor. Both versions are well worth seeking out. 16