Andrew Jefford | Bright mid-gold. Sweet, luscious, and fresh, yet very generous, too: There’s almost a figgy note to the spiced melon and soft tangerine. Gosh—once in the mouth, you see its freight and power: magnifi cent density and complexity here, and certainly a wine with a long future ahead. Commanding stu. Lushly and ripely fruity, as I’ve indicated, but also dense, creamy, and complex in a very unobvious, subtle, and intriguing manner. The legacy of a fine vineyard or botrytis? Perhaps both, but I incline more to the former. Masterful and complete, anyway—a reference bottle for this tasting. Splendid “mineral” stone finish. Young still. | 97

Charles Metcalfe | A closed, rather tongue-tied youngster, with not much to say yet. The elements seem okay, with decent acidity to balance the sweetness and highish alcohol. The finish is still dumb, with a little barley sugar and litchi at last. Ungainly at the moment, and it is hard to say if it will become more graceful. | 84

Jancis Robinson | Deep gold. Fragrant and very obviously Gewurz on the nose. Then bitter and pungent on the palate—very Gewurz! Very intriguing and rewarding. Positively flamboyant! Drink 2017–25. | 92