Andrew Jefford: Dark though not opaque black-red. Sweet, warm, and softly smoky, with melted licorice spice. Ripe, fresh, black-cherry and black-raspberry fruit. Classy and enticing aromas. Vivid, lively fruit on the palate, with little tannin; smooth, soft, bright. The palate doesn’t quite have the intricacy that the aromas promised, nor is it notably structured, but the fruit qualities are very impressive (the cherry is sourer on the palate than the aromas suggested), moreish and quenching. | 90