Andrew Jefford | Full pale gold. Excitingly warm, sensual, gingery scents over lovely orange and tangerine fruit; a little botrytis complexity, too. There’s jasmine richness as well: very complete and gratifying aromas. Lush, sweet, vivid, generous, and rather tangy on the palate, made in a much less reductive style than its peers at this “drier” end of the tasting. What you gain on the nose you perhaps lose on the palate, since it can’t quite match the aromatic charm of the wine. On the plus side, it’s quite a gutsy effort that would go well with fatty food—and no one will fail to spot the variety. | 89

Charles Metcalfe | Lovely, mature Gewurz aromas, with an attractive golden note to the color. Mainly litchi, with a suggestion of witch hazel. The palate is mature, with richness and character. There’s very good balancing acidity, and exotic length. Probably at peak point now. | 90

Jancis Robinson | Deep pinky copper. Smudgy impact on the nose—too alcoholic? Really quite a sweet start, with some burnished metal and bitterness on the end. Quite dramatic! Food definitely needed with this. Hot finish, though. Makes quite an impact. Drink 2014–18. | 89