Andrew Jefford | Bright medium gold. Rather weighty aromas, and they seem a little torpid and listless in the glass: soft fruits, pastry dough. On the palate, the wine is deep, intense, and structured, with more liveliness than the aromatic profile suggested, though the acidity is very dominant and the overall effect is a little hard. There’s lots of apple in that acidity, some of it raw. No sugar to speak of. A good wine for which a little more nuance and allusiveness would have brought a high score. | 88