Andrew Jefford | Deep black-red; the 20th wine served, and certainly the sturdiest so far in terms of depth of color. Rather muddled, keroseney scents, however, with some sweet coffeeish oak behind. A bit muddled and soupy on the palate—cherry soup, but tinned and not fresh, with a spoonful of raspberry vinegar. I could drink a curiosity glass for dinner and relish its depth of flavor alongside its more emasculated peers, but I doubt I’d finish the bottle. | 83

Anne Krebiechl | An edge of savoriness on the nose: salty soy plays alongside tart red fruit and comes together in a spicy, appetizing way that shows depth rather than power. The palate is firm and has ample crunch but the fruit is beginning to express itself on the tart, still crunchy palate. Aromatic richness of redcurrant and cranberry, conifer headiness and slight smoke define the moreish finish. Rather alluring. | 94

Jancis Robinson | Very deep crimson. Big and dense on the nose. Sweet fruit and apparently lower in acidity than the 2014s we have just been tasting. Quite arresting, and fleshier than most Pinots. Ready. 2017–22. | 88