Andrew Jefford: Pale to mid-gold in color. The aromas of this wine seem to reflect the fermentative processes and the élevage rather than primary fruits: something a little slabby, doughy, yeasty, like new upholstery or new car fascia. This sounds disconcerting but is oddly attractive. There is, to be fair, some gingery fruit beneath, too. On the palate, the wine is deep, vivid, appley, rousing, with a sense of force and dimension to it; much more statuesque than some of its German peers but still very true to the variety. The minerality seems different, too, somehow... Might it be limestone? Anyway, a successful dry Riesling with a beautifully aquiline style. It does have more constrained fruit than its peers, but this works well here and suggests a different place of origin. A slightly more pristine aroma profile would have won even higher marks. 15.5

Andreas Larsson: Beautiful purity on the nose: mineral and floral, with young fruit such as pear and quince. The palate is another really fine example, combining a fairly light structure with great flavor intensity, beautiful freshness, and more emphasis on length than breadth. Still youthful, but with a fine level of complexity. 16.5

Stephan Reinhardt: Bright white-gold color. Bright and very clear nose, subtle and pure, not as ripe as so many wines before it, which were almost citrus-free. This wine is well focused on its mineral soul and on the variety. Super-mineral and thrilling palate, electrifying citrus flavors, round, elegant, and balanced, bone-dry and full-bodied. Very salty finish. Edgy and a little bit harsh at the moment. Very good length—always mineral—should be stored for another five years or so. Rieslings at this level are made not for drinking young but after ten years. 17