Neil Beckett | Although Laroche owns a parcel in Butteaux, the fruit from its younger vines is blended not into this lieu-dit Montmains but into the Saint Martin or Premier Cru. White gold. An arrestingly intense nose: cool, cleanly earthy but perfectly pure, with no greenness or reductive gimmickry (as Michel Bettane would say). Gently flowing, relaxed texture, but a fine seam of acidity and total transparency through the long finish. Terrific. | 92