Stephen Brook: Muted nose, withatouch of honey. Fresh attack, silky, concentrated; just a hint of sweetness to balance the acidity, and a bracing, almost tart finish. Enjoyable, balanced and even subtle, with a welcome tang to keep it lively and appetising. 16.S

Jancis Robinson: Mild currant-bush aromas. Quite pungent, with a soft fruity edge. This could be enjoyed already and has quite a blossomy punch on the palate. Quite persistent. 15

Alexander Scott: The aromatic profile is similar to the Norheimer Del lchen, but with more warmth, echoed on the palate. Here is more searching depth flavour gripping every nook of the palate and hanging there. Feels like a wine from a top site but made in a restrained style, with all the rigour of an Ingres drawing. Worth keeping a few years. Quite a lot more cut and thrust than the Heymann-Lowenstein wines, which seem, with hindsight, almost too ripe. 18