Stephen Brook: Closed nose. Quite rich, rounded, almost plump; ripe apricots, but there's citrus on the acidity, which is still a touch assertive and dominates the aftertaste. Nonetheless, concentrated and long, if not very exciting. 14.5

Jancis Robinson: Very pure, dense and mineral - quite arresting. Lots of substance and alcohol. Big and muscular. A very good package that satisfies all aspects of the palate. Intriguing and well put together. Quite long. Obviously dry, but in a smoky Alsace way. This seems to me to have masses of concentration. Quite a bit of alcohol, though, too! 16

Alexander Scott: Ripe russet apples. Gentle, natural, balanced but very dry. Grippy and lingering. Not outstanding personality, though. Where are we? 14.5