Simon Field: Immediately seductive nose of fruitcake and potpourri. On the palate, plenty of sweet fruit, but with powerful drying tannins at the back and firm acidity. A wine announcing itself with the beautiful contradiction of the seductive and the noli-me-tangere. 16.5

Richard Mayson: Quite closed and subdued and rather flat on the nose, but with underlying concentration. Rich and fleshy in the mouth; big and quite opulent with broad tannins. Powerful wine for the long term, if slightly unbalanced. 15

Jancis Robinson: Slightly less intense hue than most. Lacks freshness on the nose. Very sweet, then inky. Sandpaper tannins on the finish. Slightly cheesy. Very jagged - some rawness. 11