Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: It took five tastings in three different places to get a real feel for this cru – a painstaking process (more painstaking for some than for others) that shows how difficult it can be to judge the individual merits of different crus on the basis of early barrel samples. The sample we tasted at the Union des Grands Crus showed very satisfying vinosity and palpable flesh, but the aromas suffered from uncharacteristic imprecision. The sample tasted on merchant premises performed even worse. Our next step was to taste the wine at the château. The first sample showed the same imprecision as at the Union. The second sample (of the same bottling) was cooler, revealing more of the wine’s imposing structure but remaining just as vague in aromatic terms. The cellar master then invited us to try a third sample, taken directly from the tank. Only then did we see what this wine was really made of: fleshy substance, velvety texture and that charming aromatic personality so typical of this cru, with its more complex, less Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated plantings than the Léoville. Notes of plums, liquorice and sandalwood are punctuated by a touch of new leather and handsome, persistent tannins that promise great ageing. A touch more energy and it would be up there with the greatest. 16

Margaret Rand: A classic, cedary wine of great attractiveness. It doesn’t have huge weight, but the length and structure are there. 16

Michael Schuster: fine blackberry/blackcurrant nose, with a clear mineral character. Elegantly concentrated middleweight, with a fresh acidity and very fine tannin texture. Long, juicy blackberry-fruit flavour, pure, subtly gravelly, long and discreet across the palate and finish. Wonderfully clear fruit and lovely length. A Gruaud of real finesse and class, very close to its fine 1996. 16.5