Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A growth that continues to make good progress, with this year’s sample displaying stunning, typically Cabernet Sauvignon complexity and freshness, even at this early stage. The uncharacteristically taffeta-like texture is testament to improvements in grape quality and processing. The pure, thoroughbred finish is second only to Château Margaux. 16.5

Margaret Rand: This property seems to make better wine each year. This is quite exciting, with bright, vivid fruit and good balance. 16

Michael Schuster: Scented, minerally nose. Crisply stylish middleweight, with a dry but not aggressive tannin – very evenly balanced. Long, pure, refined claret, light but complex, scented, pebbly and complete. Very successful, gently fleshy Durfort. 16v