Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Sumptuous colour. Handsome leather–spice–red-berry nose. Dense, velvety texture. Firm tannins. Superbly balanced and made for ageing. 17

Margaret Rand: This taster expects to be seduced by Palmer every year, but this year the tannins are just too green to seduce. A disappointment. 12.5

Michael Schuster: Elegant, dry-edged, lively middleweight. Long, light, fragrantly refined, faintly gravelly flavour. Ripe without being sweet, delicately silky texture, long, subtle mid-palate and good length. Classic fresh, scented claret in the making, in the slightly firmer style of the year. 16+