Margaret Rand: Classic cedary flavours, charming and pretty. It lacks heart, probably owing to big yields, but it will be attractive early. 14

Michael Schuster: Dense, gravelly nose. Firm, long-term, medium-weight Potensac. Rather chewy, linear and severe at present – fairly aromatic, but will need at least 10 years, probably more. Buy the second wine of Potensac (yes, a second wine) instead – La Chapelle de Potensac: a light, fresh, fruity, gently gravelly, delicious drinker! 14.5+