Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Great colour and very richly constituted, but perhaps at the expense of that aromatic refinement and tannic smoothness that was for so long the crowning glory of this growth. In short, what has been gained in vinosity may have been lost in finesse (or immediate finesse at any rate). The wine is sure to age superbly and for a very long time, but 60% Merlot in a year of such stupendous Cabernet Sauvignons (the grand vin is naturally blended from the estate’s magnificent Cabernets Francs) may be a bit too much for a Left Bank wine! 18

Margaret Rand: Closed, with a lot of dry tannins. The fruit is obscured and closed. It’s all a bit difficult to make out at the moment. 18

Michael Schuster: Very ripe fruit on the nose; medium-full, fresh acidity, firm, refined tannins – very well balanced in Haut-Brion’s typically discreet way; delicate, close-knit ripe fruit, clear, subtle mineral aromas, great fineness of texture, great tenacity of flavour across the mid-palate and lovely, delicately scented fruit persistence. Classic Haut-Brion understatement, but very fine. Less obvious fruit richness than La Mission, but more subtlety and scent. Another one for the fairly long term. 18