Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Red-berry-and-soot nose. Very skilful and promising due to the intensity of fruit captured by the winemaking process. A fresh, powerful wine showing fine vintage finesse on the palate but with somewhat rougher tannins than some. Clearly built for ageing. 15.5

Margaret Rand: The middle palate is closed at the moment, but the finish is good and long, so it should fill out. 16.5