Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A wine as complete as the Laville if somewhat less complex in style. Golden colour with a highly seductive, delicately citrus nose. Elegant and fresh. Full, but not without a certain tension. Very persistent. 18

Margaret Rand: Grapefruit nose and palate, lean, tight and spare. Finish is very powerful and long. Needs ages. 19

Michael Schuster: Greeny gold. Fat, waxy Semillon nose, along with Sauvignon freshness, too. Rich, fleshy, generous wine, beautifully defined by its acidity. Dry, yet so ripe in flavour; ample, mouth-fillingly aromatic and with a very long and very tenacious palate. Grand cru white Burgundy proportions and scope. A fine Haut-Brion Blanc. 18.5