Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Deep and opulent with an aristocratic, truffly bouquet and less aggressive, less taut tannins than the Canon-la-Gaffelière. A great wine. 17

Michael Schuster: Inky. Ripe, sweet, seductive cassis fruit on the nose. Concentrated medium-weight with crisp acidity and firm, dry tannin. Strong, concentrated, almost raisiny-sweet flavour, very oak-dried at the edges. An intense ‘upfront’ core of fruit, but all ‘verticality’, little ‘linearity’ – in other words, there is little mid-palate complexity, the flavours don’t go anywhere and there is little to explore other than the fruit concentration. Not coarse, and with good medium length. More immediately sweet than Canon-la-Gaffelière (from the same stable) but hotter and less complex. 15.5