Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A monumental wine this year, with vigorous but not aggressive tannins and a density of texture that is an improvement on some of the rather more urbane vintages we’ve seen in previous years. Sure to reveal all the class of this cru with very long ageing. 16.5

Michael Schuster: Very ripe, oaky fruit to smell. Very concentrated, very tannic and with a lively acidity, too – strongest impression is of pure fresh fruit framed by a swingeingly tough tannin. Good fruit persistence. By a long way the most monolithic wine made by Jean-Luc Thunevin. What are we to make of it? I don’t know. I’m not sure he does either. NS