Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Great colour with a ripe almost jammy nose but finishing on unyielding and even rigid tannins. To be revisited. 13.5

Margaret Rand: Quite extracted, chewy tannins, pepper and spice fruit. Rich and concentrated, with a powerful, long finish. 18

Michael Schuster: Dense, ripe, yet fresh and minerally on the nose. Rich middleweight, generous, fleshy, finely tannic – classic Pomerol proportions. Ripe, warm, complex, long and spicy. A deliciously creamy example, probably the best Gazin since the lovely 1990, and with more density than that. A likely steal for very good Pomerol! 16+