Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: As usual, not blended, and in our not entirely unanimous opinion, impossible to score as a result. Various batches tasted in the order of picking suggest a fruity, complex vintage but lacking the opulence of the 2001. Our hunch is that, whatever its undisputed charms, this year’s Climens will not quite equal its traditional rival, the Coutet. NS

Michael Schuster: Unassembled when tasted. The constituent parts are rich and complex in a lively, elegant-middleweight style. 18?