Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: One of the jewels of this vintage: sensationally pure citrus nose, exceptional acid balance, lingering thoroughbred persistence. Pending final blending of the Château Climens, there doesn’t seem to be another Barsac to touch it. 19

Margaret Rand: Closed and a bit dumb, but there’s a good roasted finish, quite powerful and long. 16

Michael Schuster: Rich medium-weight with a lively acidity, a lovely ’04 balance. Intensely sweet, with a marked noble-rot spice and complexity. A lovely combination of Semillon barley-sugar richness and limestone-infused Barsac elegance and restraint. Excellent Coutet – vivid, long and classy. 17.5