Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A magnificent sample with admirably roasted character and superb finesse. Very elegant and pure, with good length and lovely nuanced fruit that almost rivals the Fargue for complexity. 17

Margaret Rand: Rich mango fruit and a powerful finish. Good acidity, balance and length. 17.5

Michael Schuster: Nose of honey, mineral, wax and coconut. Concentrated, medium-full wine with a fine, fresh acidity. Intensely sweet, aristocratic, elegant flavour. Long, graceful, mineral-backed Sauternes, long across the palate and long to finish. Typically stylish and quietly classy. Lovely. 17