Alison Buchanan: Very modern, intense blue-black, though not opaque, this has a gorgeous, richly fruited nose, rich in spicy hot fruitcake. The palate is opulent and full with silky-ripe tannins. Lovely, harmonious, ample and seductive, this hardly screams Rioja at you, but it is fine nevertheless. 17.5

Jancis Robinson: Purple. Musky, brambly fruits, great big fruit, musky, fresh, lipsmacking acidity, lots of fruit, lots of tannin, but all in balance. 17

Jeremy Watson: Deep, rich ruby, with superb structure showing profound aromas and resonant flavours that indicate a truly great wine that is by no means ready yet. 19