Alison Buchanan: Black cherry to a dark-cherry rim, this has an intensely spiced nose, treacle, liquorice and black pepper to the fore. Dark chocolate and coffee come through on the palate. Oak is a tad hefty – sweetly toasted, but there is a fresh, primary lift, too. Darkly spiced, this has a long, sweet finish. 17.5

Jancis Robinson: Purple/ruby. Big fruit, warm rubber, dark, deep – another blockbuster. Fruit and tannin in large (but balanced) quantities, austere mid-palate and very long with endless persistence. This should run and run. 18

Jeremy Watson: Now this can be traced back to Rioja while remaining very much new wave. Again a deep ruby colour, with fruit aromas competing with the oak tannins, and a richness combined with a hint of softness in the mouth that is hugely attractive. 18.5