Jancis Robinson: Garnet/tawny. Unusual, warm, ‘mealy/wheaty’ overtones, but not unpleasant. Yes, decent fruit; nice, warm, ripe, some complexity, but ultimately starting to fade. Drink up. Note: both the 1982 gran reservas look slightly younger than the reservas. 14

Jeremy Watson: Ageing in style. The appearance is brilliant yet with distinct browning at the edges. Real pungency of red soft fruits on the nose and rich full vibrancy in the mouth. An aristocratic wine. 18