Alison Buchanan: Black-shot garnet to a tight tawny rim, this has a slightly spirity character on the nose, but overall a lovely decadent personality shines through. The palate appears slightly out of kilter vis-à-vis the nose, as if going through a transition phase. Rather firm tannins rein in rich, ripe fruit, to a degree that contrasts with the hedonistically perfumed mid-palate and finish. Definitely a body builder in drag. 17.5

Jancis Robinson: (First glass) Red/garnet. Warm, ripe, clean but lacks fruit character. Decent fruit on the foretaste, but a hint of ‘wet wood’ follows through, and a bit spiky on the finish – some sediment left in the glass. (Second glass, without sediment) Fruit still there, but the ‘wet wood’ and spiky bitterness gone. Needs decanting! 15

Jeremy Watson: Rich ruby. Glorious, pungent black forest-fruit aromas and lovely resonance in the mouth. Vibrant, rich wine with great length. 18