Alison Buchanan: Deep black-cherry velvet, this has a gorgeous nose, rich in baked fruit, warm brioche notes and mocha cream. The palate is silky, opulent and delightfully spiced. Slightly exotic, there is an exuberant freshness lifting darker brooding fruit and hints of leather and tobacco: very attractive. 18

Jancis Robinson: Purple. Dark, musky fruit; subtle. Big, powerful fruit and tannins but very nicely put together. Length majors on the fruit with a bite of spice on the finish. Good, modern winemaking. 17

Jeremy Watson: This flatters to deceive. Here is a new-wave wine that has failed so far. It hits you between the eyes with colour and aroma and leaves one floundering with the taste in the mouth. Almost ‘what taste?’ 14