Oz Clarke: Fairly big, ripe nose with a little Bordeaux reduction – that’s okay. Good, firm, typically black cherry, even black-olive flavours are pleasant, grainy tannin and some home-made jam texture – and I like home-made jam. This is a good, fairly full, fruit-led Napa – a little mint. Spice with the reasonably heady fruit and soft oak. 16.5

Alex Hunt: Intensely herbal, savoury aromatics, yet very ripe, velvety mouthfeel, high alcohol and soft tannin. Has this got borderline Brett? There is an old-school barnyardy feel that to me doesn’t sit comfortably with the broad-brush structure. With tannins this soft and the alcohol adding its own sweetness, there needs to be more focus to the fruit. 14.5

Margaret Rand: Nice plum-tart nose and a supple, silky palate. It’s lighter, which is a virtue when allied to such a good long finish. It has structure and concentration of fruit without massive extraction, and there’s a transparency that I always regard as the mark of something seriously good. Very expressive and very promising. And the length goes on forever. 18.5