Oz Clarke: Big, fairly deep, chocolaty, a bit pepper bitter and tannic. There’s quite serious plum and stewed cherry fruit, and the tannin marries reasonably well into a big, powerful, strong-boned style. 16

Alex Hunt: Very backward – in fact, even at 3 1⁄2 years old, it began showing some tanky aromas, which then blew off to reveal some complex clove-like spice notes alongside the fruit. On the palate, though, the fruit still seems simple and the finish rather abrupt, so it’s hard to work out where this wine is going. 15.5

Margaret Rand: Soft, cooked prunes, figs, some spice, hot. Rich, length not huge, broad rather than elegant, decent balance. Coffee and toffee. Seductive, but not immensely interesting or compelling. 16