Oz Clarke: Slightly Bretty nose, or is it rather charred American oak? I’m not sure, but the wine does have a mocha-coffee quality only partially matched by fruit. It’s pleasant, but it isn’t special and can’t quite cope with this treatment. 13

Alex Hunt: Eggy sulphidic aromas. These blow off to an extent with aeration, so make sure you decant this, but there is still something getting in the way of the fruit. Neither plumpness nor charisma here. 14

Margaret Rand: Leathery fruit, polished, finish very good and expressive. A bit hot and alcoholic – in fact, very hot and alcoholic. It’s good, and yet… 15