Alison Buchanan: Buttered, caramelised pineapple on the nose – upside-down cake. Deep yellow-gold in colour, this is a drag queen, wearing heart firmly on sleeve. Very heavily oaked and sweet, there is nothing obviously Italian to speak of in its character – just another oaky, smoky Chardonnay that could come from anywhere in the world, albeit well made. Very creamy, oaked finish. 14

Nicolas Belfrage: Deepish yellow/light gold. Pungent nose in which oak has played a starring role. Buttery and weighty, southern of style, it is almost a good drink, falling down on excess weight. 15

Alex Hunt: Very deep golden colour and a developed fruit character on the nose, which also suggests considerable ripeness. A somewhat oxidative character on the palate, though with power, finesse and fruit still intact. Individual, but a bit flabby. 14