Alison Buchanan: Very nasty, chemical, plastic eraser, almost ammoniac nose. Deeply unpleasant on nose, and mercifully much less so on palate, which is full and rich. This does not appear faulty, so is this the intention? 9

Nicolas Belfrage: Medium-weight, yeasty, creamy Chardonnay with good firm acid to keep it going. A bit more class than the Livon Chardonnay, if a bit less weight – that is, better balance – and very good length. 17

Alex Hunt: Very ripe fruit aromas, and the palate too gives an immediate blast of fruit before quickly revealing its alcohol. Low on flavour and acid, high on alcohol – this is not fine or balanced. 11