Alison Buchanan: Our amber fiend – sorry, friend – again. More like a red wine, this is just strange and very, very dry. 0

Nicolas Belfrage: Light Sherry colour. Nose frankly oxidised. More fruit to it than the Ribolla but still a foreigner to modern wine, obviously intentionally. Tannic, oxidised, complex; takes some thinking about. Given that you have to mark these wines either high or low, and given that I marked the Ribolla low, this time I’ll go as high as I can. But I still don’t see the point. Why not move to Jerez? 17

Alex Hunt: Bizarre copper colour. Very volatile – in fact, positively vinegary. This is off-puttingly acrid. Its other characters and qualities are unable to stand and be counted. 7