Neil Beckett: With more classic minerality on the nose than most Chablis from this stifling vintage, this manages to retain some restraint, with nothing more exotic than the delicate scent of tangerine. Smooth, seductive texture, but enough acidity and minerality to give some mid-palate tenacity and a fair flourish on the finish. Faintly but pleasantly phenolic, which reinforces the structure. The steel thread is less tightly wound than normal, but the pitch has slipped only a tone or two.