Michael Schuster: Dark red. Intensely fruited nose, crisp, sweet, ripe Cabernet; a beautiful, effortless balance, moderately concentrated but with a light, very refined tannin and a notably supple texture at the level. Beautifully judged extract and oak; a fine, elegantly rich, sweet fruit core; long, fresh, juicy, refined, and with superb persistence; plush within its fine tannic frame. A very fine Lafite, a very fine 2004. Accessible earlier than many top wines. 2014–40. 18.5