Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: they were clearly looking to make a smooth and elegant wine, and the texture is remarkably accessible even now. but true wine lovers will prefer the Duhart-Milon. 17

Michael Schuster: Middleweight with modest concentration, a firmish tannin and fresh acidity; a touch chewy for the juicy ripe fruit; good medium length, though finishing with a fairly dry impression. Decent rather than special. Finishes grippy. 2018–25. 15.5