Michael Schuster: Mid-gold; intense, beautifully clear-cut nose of honey, subtle new oak, raisins—intense and persistent. Very rich, very sweet, and vital in its supporting acidity; liqueur-like in its concentration and viscosity of texture, yet completely without heaviness; and behind the sugar, an exceptionally energetic raciness, a constant underlying frisson of energy within the enveloping, silky coating. Pure honey, raisin, gently citrussy orange and tangerine base flavors enlivened by the exotic spice and complexity of botrytis; enormously tenacious flavor as one explores it, keeps it, lets it rest on the palate. An exceptionally refined and delicate richness and a presence, as an aftertaste, that can be measured in minutes. The richest, sweetest, most succulent Yquem I have tasted, in my view, finer than the 1990, richer than the 1989, more fine-spun than the 2003—all comparisons made by the château. Whether it will measure up to the 2001, it will be interesting to see; for the moment it seems more obviously opulent, less taut, more liqueur-like in texture, though time in barrel will give it even more complexity, definition, and resonance. A wonderful expression of Sauternes, which will be a delight from the moment it is bottled, I should imagine. 2018–50+. 19.5/20?
Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: We know that some people have been bothered by the change in the style of wine here since 2004—and we feel sorry for them! How can you not be humbled in admiration before the tour de force that is represented in the perfect sensations of an immensely rich fruit and an almost crystalline purity of texture, recalling the greatest Rieslings of the Saar or the Rhine? Hats off to the winemaking team! 20
Details
Wine expert | Michael Schuster Michel Bettane Thierry Desseauve |
Tastings year | 2010 |
Region | Bordeaux |
Appellation | AOC |