Stephen Brook: Medium straw. Lean, youthful nose, lime, very citric, extremely elegant. Rich, full-bodied, somewhat less mineral than the nose suggests, but it still has that racy, citric acidity. This has an austerity that not everyone will like, but I find it refreshing and invigorating. Good length. 18

Simon Field: Ripe, honeyed and very expressive. A taut and yet generous wine with a weight of fruit, a really powerful finish and firm acidity to balance the fruit, which is ripe, pure and supremely articulate. 17.5

Roy Richards: This is good, too. Petrol and peach. Even more moral rigour than the Knoll Riesling Loibenberg Loibner, heading towards Jansenism. Admirable but less hedonistic. Jamek style. 18