Stephen Brook: Discreet nose, with ripe citrus (lime) and apple aromas. Suave attack, with an appealing silkiness, leading to a finely balanced palate, not too heavy in overt fruitiness and with an appealing streak of acidity and minerality. There is admirable and delicious concentration of fruit and a grainy, earthy texture that gives the wine complexity. This has depth and persistence, too. 17.5

Simon Larkin: The aromas suggest a toffee/caramel quality above all else. The palate follows in a similar vein, with a vanillin-infused fruit, quite viscous, almost gloppy. The fruit seems suppressed, though I find the lively citrussy acidity a signal of good underlying substance. There is a pleasing balance between fruit and acidity, yet one can’t help thinking that the winemaking has somewhat overrun the wine. 10.5

Andreas Larsson: A more elegant interpretation than many, still with the characteristics of Grüner but a bit more on the white Burgundy side. Bone-dry, with great freshness, marked minerality, and ripe citrus. Nicely balanced, with a long and pure finish. Good! 17