Stephen Brook: Medium straw. Delicate, charming nose of sherbet and white peach. Medium-bodied, a bit slack; this lacks concentration and zest despite modest acidity. A tangy, sherbetty finish, but there’s an essential blandness here and a lack of persistence. Medium length. 15

Simon Field: Toasty, almost buttery nose, then a palate that is dry but less dry than some. Ripeness is all; the virtuous grip holds in the wine as a structural vice. The nascent ripeness will permit a lengthy evolution and a match for a variety of foods. 17